Zipper-Back Pouch (In-the-Hoop)

Carry a bit of cheer with you wherever you go! This specialized in-the-hoop design makes stitching a little zipper pouch quick and simple -- and adorable embroidered details add the perfect finishing touch. We'll show you step-by-step how it's done!

First, print the dieline files that come with your design. This file will always have "DL" in the name. (Click here for instructions on how to print or stitch dieline templates.) The Sunnyside Bird Coin Purse design we are using has four files - one is the full embroidery file, and the other three are dieline files.

To begin preparing the fabric pieces, cut two rectangles out of the main fabric that are twice as big as the back (file "a") top and bottom pieces. Fold both fabric pieces in half with wrong sides together. Press the folded edge, and spray the wrong side of the fabric with temporary adhesive to hold the folded fabric together. Adhering the two folded sides together will help prevent shifting and make the pieces easier to cut.

Then spray the back side of the two back piece (file "a") paper dielines with temporary adhesive. Smooth them onto the right side of the fabric, matching one edge up with the folded side. It can be helpful to label to pieces, so they don't get mixed up.

Cut the two back pieces out on the fold, and remove the paper dieline.

For the front dieline pieces (files "b"), simply spray the paper dielines with temporary adhesive, and smooth them onto the right side of the flat, unfolded fabrics. Then cut out the shapes, and remove the paper.

Now that the fabric pieces are ready, hoop a piece of tear-away stabilizer tightly. Madeira E-Zee Tear 1.5 oz. or Floriani Tearaway Medium are good choices. Those brands are more fibrous, less paper-like, and will tear more cleanly.

Load the back embroidery file (file "a") onto the machine, and begin to embroider the design. The first thing to sew will be the "zipper dieline". This marks the place where the zipper will be placed on the stabilizer.

The zipper dieline sews a box with a centerline through the middle.

 To place the zipper correctly, close the zipper, and match up the center of the zipper (the teeth that zip and unzip) with the sewn centerline.

Make sure the wrong side of the zipper is against the stabilizer, and tape it in place. The zipper should hang over the hoop on both sides, and will be trimmed away later.

Once the zipper is taped down, place the hoop back on the machine, and embroider the "zipper tackdown" step.

 This will adhere the zipper to the stabilizer, and hold it in place for the remainder of the design. Don't worry if it sews over the tape, it can be easily torn away from around the stitches. Then remove the tape before continuing to embroider.

Remove the tape, and embroider the "top back piece dieline" step.

This will sew out an outline where the top back fabric piece will go.

Spray the back side of the folded top fabric piece with temporary adhesive. With the folded edge against zipper, smooth the fabric piece inside the sewn dieline shape.

Then continue to embroider the "top back piece tackdown" step.

Repeat the previous steps to embroider the "bottom back piece dieline", place the fabric piece, and embroider the tackdown. Again make sure the folded edge is against the zipper.

Once the design is finished embroidering, trim away the excess stabilizer from around the back piece. Do not cut the zipper.

Once the back (file "a") is completed, hoop another piece of tear-away stabilizer, and load the front (file "b") onto the machine. The first thing to embroider will be the dieline for the main fabric piece.

Place the fabric piece in the sewn dieline, and embroider the “front piece tackdown” step.

For the raw edge applique pieces, embroider the dieline, and locate the "branches" that extend around the sewn shape.

These show where the fabric edge should be placed, and allow for the stitching to be more hidden under the fabric piece.

Spray the back side of the applique piece with temporary adhesive, and place it so the edges of the fabric match up with the tips of the dieline "branches".

Then embroider the tackdown for the applique piece.

If the design has more than one applique piece, simply follow the color change sheet, and embroider the dieline, place the fabric, and embroider the tackdown for each applique piece.

After the applique pieces are all in place, the inner details of the design will sew.

Follow the color change sheet, and stop before sewing the "finishing seam".

If the design has any stiff felt pieces, additional placement marks with embroider before the “finishing seam.

The small line helps to line up the stiff felt pieces, so the end up where they belong when the purse is turned right side out.

Place the stiff felt in between the placement stitches, so the flat end lines up with the outer edge of the fabric.

Tape it in place using masking tape. The shape will look backwards, so it is oriented correctly when the zipper pouch is turned right side out.

Before sewing the "finishing seam", stop the machine, and remove the hoop without unhooping the design.

To add a small strap for hardware, cut a piece of non fraying fabric that is 2” long and ½” wide, or cut a 2” long piece of ribbon or cord. Fold it in half, and place the looped end on the inside of the pouch (so the raw edges hang over the edge). Tape it in place over the embroidered details, and make sure the loop will not get caught in the finishing seam.

To make a whole wrist strap, do the same thing, but with a cord 8”-12” long, and fold the looped end up so it is condensed over the detail embroidery.

On the back piece (file "a"), it is very important to move the slider (also called the pull tab) of the zipper to the center of the design.

This will leave the zipper about half open and will allow the slider to be a part of the zipper pouch, so it can be opened and closed. If you do not move the slider, the pouch will be permanently stuck closed, so do not forget!

Then lay the back piece (file "a") with a half open zipper on top of the hooped front piece (file "b") with right sides together. Match up the outer edges, and tape the back piece in place around all four sides of the design.

Place the hoop back onto the machine, and embroider the final "finishing seam step. This will bind all the layers together, and create the final shape of the purse.

Once the design is finished sewing, tear away the excess stabilizer from around the design.

Then carefully remove the stabilizer from the back of the front side of the design to give it more flexibility. Using the point of a seam ripper can help to pull up the pieces of stabilizer.

Then repeat to remove the stabilizer from the back side of the back piece, as well as to uncover the zipper opening and make the bag more flexible.

After all the tear-away stabilizer is removed, trim away the excess fabric by cutting around the finishing seam.

Only leave about a 1/4" of seam allowance around the shape for best results. Also cut both sides of the zipper off about 1/4" away from the finishing seam.

Then carefully cut notches or slits into the seam allowance to help the curves turn out better once the purse is turned right side out.

Finally, turn the pouch right side out through the open zipper. Remove any tape, and press the edge if using a fabric that doesn’t melt. The zipper can be opened more while its wrong side out to help make the hole bigger when turning.

If desired, a key ring or carabiner can be added onto the small loop of the design. Simply slide it on, and then connect the purse to a bag or set of keys.