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Bifold Wallet (In-the-Hoop)

Bifold Wallet (In-the-Hoop)

Carry a stylish statement with you wherever you go! This in-the-hoop wallet design features a decorative compass rose motif, perfect for the wanderer at heart. Your choice of outer and lining fabrics will make your wallet one-of-a-kind!

Supplies & Materials:

To create your wallet you'll need:

  • In-the-hoop wallet embroidery design
  • 1/4 yard of thin, soft pleather, vinyl, leather or ultrasuede (for the outside pockets)
  • 1/4 yard of quilter's cotton, tan drill or linen (for the lining / back piece)
  • Medium weight tear-away stabilizer
  • Temporary spray adhesive (such as Gunold KK100)
  • 40 wt. rayon thread for embroidery
  • Scissors
  • Bone folder, pencil or marker (to crease the fold)
  • Printed templates of the dieline files that came with the design download (these will have "DL" in the file name)

The designs used in this tutorial include: 

- Wanderlust Wallet (In-the-Hoop), UTZ2862

Gather Materials:

First, print the dieline files that comes with your design. This file will always have "DL" in the name. (Click here for instructions on how to print or stitch dieline templates.) The Wanderlust Wallet design we are using has four files - one is the full embroidery file, and the other three are dieline files.

Spray the back side of the paper with temporary adhesive and smooth it onto the wrong side of the pleather or leather. Placing it on the wrong side of the fabric will prevent the sticky residue from building up on the right side of the pleather or leather.

Rectangular white fabric piece with rounded corners, stitched edge lines in gray, placed on a brown wooden surface.

Cut around the shape, and repeat to cut out all the other dieline piece. Make sure to cut out the front, back (lining), and all four pockets.

Four brown leather pieces cut in varying shapes, a rectangular brown leather piece, a white rectangular piece with rounded corners, and orange scissors on a wooden surface.

Start Embroidering:

Hoop a piece of tearaway stabilizer, and load the embroidery file (not a dieline file) onto the machine.

Embroidery hoop with stabilizer fabric stretched, placed on a wooden surface. The hoop is beige plastic, rectangular with rounded corners.

The first thing to embroider is the dieline which shows you where to place the front pleather piece.

Close-up of an embroidery machine hoop with white stabilizer, stitching a rectangular outline in red thread on a flat surface under the needle.

Spray the back side of the front pleather piece with temporary adhesive, and carefully smooth it in place within the shape. Then continue to embroidery the tackdown for the front piece.

Rectangular brown leather piece placed on white fabric stabilizer held by a large rectangular embroidery hoop with a beige frame on a wooden surface.

Then continue to embroider all the internal details, and follow the color change sheet. Make sure to stop before sewing the "back piece tackdown" step.

Close-up of a sewing machine embroidering a detailed compass design with cardinal directions on a rectangular piece of brown leather.

Before sewing the "back piece tackdown" step, remove the hoop from the machine, and flip it over so the back side is facing up. Then spray the back side of the back piece with temporary adhesive, and smooth it in place over the back side of the embroidery.

Hand lifting a beige fabric piece with embroidered small black clock design on white stabilizer in an embroidery hoop on a wooden surface.

Place the hoop back onto the machine and embroider the "back piece tackdown" step. Stop the machine again before sewing the "pocket tackdown".

Close-up of a brown leather wallet piece inside a sewing machine hoop, with an embroidered dark brown compass design stitched near the top left corner.

The in-the-hoop leather wallet has four pockets. Turn the hoop over again, so the back side is facing up. Then spray the back side of the two large pocket pieces with temporary adhesive.

For best results, only spray along the 3 straight sides. Place them over the back fabric, lining the edges up with the original dieline on both ends of the wallet, and smooth them in place. .

Partially completed brown and beige bifold wallet held in an embroidery hoop on a wooden surface, showing stitching areas and fabric layers.

Then repeat to spray along the edges of the smaller pockets and place them directly on top of the larger pockets. Make sure to match up the edges and smooth them securely in place.

Rectangular fabric piece with brown faux leather sides and cream center, stitched with angled seam lines, lying on white stabilizer in embroidery hoop.

Before embroidering the rest of the design, wind a bobbin to match the thread being used in the top needle. This way the stitching will look nice and uniform on the inside and outside of the wallet.

Large spool of dark brown thread and a small bobbin wound with the same thread, placed on a wooden surface with visible grain.

Place the matching bobbin into the machine, and embroider the final two steps of the design.

First a "pocket tackdown" will embroider to secure the pieces in place. Then the finishing seam will sew the final border around the wallet.

Brown leather piece with stitched compass rose design being embroidered by a sewing machine on white fabric in an embroidery hoop.

Once the wallet has finished embroidering, remove the stabilizer from the hoop, and then gently tear away the excess stabilizer from around the design.

Brown bifold wallet with a dark brown compass rose embroidery on the upper left corner, resting on white and dark wooden surfaces.

To finish the in-the-hoop wallet, match up the short ends and fold the wallet in half, carefully creasing the fold with a bone folder or the side of a pencil or marker.

Hand holding a brown bifold wallet with a dark brown embroidered compass design on the front, placed on a wooden surface background.