How to Make a 3D Moth or Butterfly (In-the-Hoop)

The 3D moths and butterflies come in 2 sizes: a large and a small size. Below are the amount of wing and body fabric you will need to make the large vs small sizes. These fabric amounts are for fabric that is 50in wide.

Wing Fabric (Large): 2 yards

Wing Fabric (Small): 1 yard

Body Fabric (Large): 1/2 yard

Body Fabric (Small): 1/3 yard

Antennae fabric (Small & Large): 1/4 yard

Start by preparing the fabric for the first wing file (labeled with an “a”). Cut a piece of the wing fabric that is slightly larger than the hoop. Then cut a piece of a lightweight cutaway stabilizer that is soft and flexible (such as Sulky Soft n Sheer) to the same size. Spray the stabilizer with temporary adhesive and smooth it onto the wrong side of the wing fabric piece.

Hoop the wing fabric and stabilizer together. Make sure everything is hooped tightly and that there are no wrinkles or puckers in the fabric.

Load the embroidery file for the wing onto the embroidery machine, attach the hoop, and begin to embroider the design. Follow the color change sheet closely to embroider the inner details, wing alignment guide, and stop before sewing the step called "seam".

To make the back fabric piece, cut a piece of the wing fabric to roughly 2in taller and wider than the embroidery file you are sewing. For example, the smaller wing "a" file for this luna moth is 7.21in x 7.13in, so we cut a piece of fabric that was about 9.25in x 9.25in.

Also cut a piece of flex foam to the same size. Spray the flex foam with temporary adhesive, and smooth it onto the wrong side of the back fabric piece. If your flex foam is fusible on one side, you can also use that to fuse it onto the fabric.

Before sewing the seam step, remove the hoop from the machine but do not unhoop the fabric. Lay the layered back fabric piece and foam on top of the embroidery so the right sides of the wing fabric are together. Tape down the edges to hold it in place.

Make sure the fabric is both completely covering the embroidery and hanging past the embroidery area evenly on all four sides. Since we cut the back fabric piece 2in bigger, it doesn't have to be placed perfectly. Just place it as carefully as you can.

Then place the embroidery hoop back on the machine and embroider the rest of the design. A seam will embroider first, and then the cutline will sew. For best results, always match the seam to the color of your wing fabric. For the cutline, sew it in whatever thread color you can see easily.

Once the embroidery is finished, unhoop the wing fabric and remove the tape. When you look at the side with the flex foam, you will see 2 embroidered lines. The inner embroidered line is the seam and this is the actual sewn seam of the wings so do not cut it. The outer line or shape is the cutline where the shape of the wings will be cut out.

In between the seam and cutline is the seam allowance which will be 1/4in around the sides, and 1/2in along the small top edge where the wing will be sewn into the body later.

Carefully cut out the wing along the cutline. Make sure to cut through all the layers of fabric, stabilizer, and foam. Be careful not to cut the seam.

Once the wing is cut out, carefully cut slits into the seam allowance around all the curved edges, corners, and points. This will help the edges of the wings lay nicely once turned right side out. Be careful not to cut the seam.

Only cut slits in the seam allowance along the edges where the seam also sewed out. Do not cut slits into the top edges where the seam stopped and didn't sew as it will make it harder to hand sew later.

Turn the wing right side out. If needed you can gently use the eraser end of a pencil (or something similar) to help push out any small pieces or curves. If some curved edges are not turning well, it can help to add more or deeper cuts in the seam allowance.

Repeat the previous steps to embroider the other 3 wings out of fabric, stabilizer, and foam (files "b", "c", and "d"). Then also cut them out, cut slits into the seam allowances, and turn them right side out.

Take the first wing, and look carefully at the opening. The "wing placement guide" is a tiny rectangle that sewed along the top edge. For all wings, we are going to fold the fabric edges in 1/4in and hand sew the opening closed only along the side of the wing. Do not fold in or sew closed the top edge of the wing where the wing placement guide sewed.

Fold in the side of the wing 1/4in, and hand sew it closed using thread matching the wing fabric. A whip stitch or ladder stitch works well for closing this opening. As explained in the previous step, only sew the side edge closed, not the top edge with the wing placement guide.

For best results, use clips or pins to hold the edges in place while sewing.

Repeat to fold in the side edge of all four wings 1/4in and hand sew them closed. For all wings, do not fold in or sew the top edge with the wing placement guide.

Also sort the wings so the right wing pieces are together and the left wing piece are together. This means the top right "a" should be with the bottom right wings "c", and the top left "b" should be with the bottom left wings "d".

Now the wings are ready for assembly, take the left top and bottom wings (files "b" and "d"), and locate their wing placement guides which are the small, embroidered rectangle markers along the top edge.

Lay the top left wing on top of the bottom left wing with the back side of the top wing against the front of the bottom wing. Match up the wing placement lines on both wings and pin them together along the top edge.

On a sewing machine, sew the top and bottom left wings together along the top edge with a 3/8in seam. This will keep them lined up and make them easier to attach to the body later.

Then repeat to match up and sew the top and bottom right wings together as well. Make sure only to sew along the top edge with a 3/8in seam.

Set the wings aside for now.

To embroider the antennae, hoop a piece of soft lightweight cutaway stabilizer by itself with no fabric. Make sure it is hooped tightly and has no wrinkles.

The antennae and body files have you place the fabric rather than hooping it to use less materials for these smaller pieces.

Place the hoop on the machine, and load the antennae embroidery file "e". Begin the embroider the design. The first thing to embroider will be the "fabric placement guide" that will show where to place the fabric.

Stop embroidering after the fabric placement guide has sewn.

After the fabric placement guide has sewn, remove the hoop from the machine but do not unhoop the stabilizer. Cut a piece of antennae fabric the same size or slightly larger than the sewn fabric placement guide. This will be the front fabric piece.

Then spray the wrong side of the front fabric piece with temporary adhesive and smooth it onto the hoop stabilizer. Make sure it completely covers the sewn fabric placement guide.

Now that the front fabric piece is in place, place the hoop back on the machine and embroider the details of the design. Stop before embroidering the step called "antennae seams".

Before embroidering the antennae seams step, remove the hoop from the machine without unhooping the stabilizer. Cut a back piece of fabric the same size or larger than the front fabric piece. Lay the back fabric piece on top of the front fabric piece with right sides together. Tape along the edges to hold the back fabric piece in place.

Place the hoop back on the machine, and embroider the rest of the design. Just like with the wings files, an inner seam and an outer cutline will sew around both antennae. The cutline of the antennae will also include a little triangle shape along one edge to be used as a placement guide later.

For best results, always match the seam to the color of your antennae fabric. For the cutline, sew it in a thread color you can see easily.

Once the embroidery is finished, unhoop the stabilizer and remove the tape. Carefully cut out both antennae along the cutline. Make sure to cut through all the layers of fabric and stabilizer. Be careful not to cut the seam.

Once the antennae are cut out, carefully cut slits into the seam allowance around all the curved edges, corners, and points. This will help the edges of the wings lay nicely once turned right side out. Be careful not to cut the seam.

Only cut slits in the seam allowance along the edges where the seam also sewed out. Do not cut slits into the top edges where the seam stopped and didn't sew.

Turn the antennae right side out. If needed, you can gently use the eraser end of a pencil (or something similar) to help push out any small pieces or curves. If some curved edges are not turning well, it can help to add more or deeper cuts in the seam allowance.

If desired, you can also press the antennae with a pressing cloth to help get crip edges if your fabric is iron safe, but it is not necessary.

Then take a filling material like polyester fiber fill and lightly stuff both antennae. They should be stuffed lightly so they have some shape but are still a little soft and squishy. Make sure you can push the stuffing up so there is none in the opening about 1/2-5/8in from the raw edge as that is where we will need to sew later.

Set both antennae aside for now.

To embroider the upper body pieces, hoop a piece of soft lightweight cutaway stabilizer by itself with no fabric. Make sure it is hooped tightly and has no wrinkles.

The antennae and body files have you place the fabric rather than hooping it to use less materials for these smaller pieces.

Place the hoop on the machine, and load the upper body embroidery file "f". Begin the embroider the design. The first this to embroider will be the fabric placement guide that will show where to place the fabric.

Stop embroidering after the fabric placement guide has sewn.

If using faux fur, it is best to cut it from the back side of the fabric with a craft knife rather than with a scissor. This way you can cut only through the backing fabric and not the fur itself. This will leave the fur long and pretty on the front and it will also make cutting the fur less messy as fewer little bits of fur will get cut off to make a mess.

After the fabric placement guide has sewn, remove the hoop from the machine but do not unhoop the stabilizer. Cut a piece of body fabric the same size or slightly larger than the sewn fabric placement guide.

Then spray the wrong side of the front fabric piece with temporary adhesive and smooth it onto the hoop stabilizer. Make sure it completely covers the sewn "fabric placement guide".

If using a fluffy fabric, smooth the fabric so it is laying nicely and then place a piece lightweight water soluble stabilizer over the fabric. Tape the edges down to hold it in place. This will prevent both the embroidery from sinking into the fluffy fabric as well as the embroidery foot from getting caught in the fabric.

Place the hoop back on the machine and continue to embroider the design. A cutline will sew for both the front and back upper body pieces. A wing placement guide and the inner details will embroider. Make sure to sew the wing and antennae placement lines in a thread color you can easily see on the fabric.

Stop after sewing the antennae placement guide.

Before sewing the "right antennae tackdown", remove the hoop from the machine without unhooping the stabilizer. Take the right antennae piece and push the stuffing material up so it is not in the bottom 1/2in-5/8in of the antennae by the opening. This way it will not be in the way while embroidering.

For some moths and butterflies like the luna moth we are making, the right and left antennae are exactly the same.

Lay the right antennae on top of the upper body embroidery with the embroidered side of the antennae facing down. Match the small triangle cut out on the antennae with the right sewn triangle on the upper body.

Once the triangle notches are matched up on the right side, tape the antennae in place. Make sure all the stuffing stays pushed up away from the opening area. Make sure to tape down both the top and bottom of the antennae so it stays securely in place while embroidering.

Place the hoop back on the machine and embroider the right antennae tackdown step. This will sew the antennae in place. Stop before embroidering the step called "left antennae tackdown".

Before sewing the left antennae tackdown, remove the hoop from the machine without unhooping the stabilizer. Take the left antennae piece and push the stuffing material up so it is not in the bottom 1/2in-5/8in of the antennae by the opening.

Lay the left antennae on top of the upper body embroidery with the embroidered side of the antennae facing down. Match the small triangle cut on the antennae with the left sewn triangle on the upper body and tape the left antennae in place. Make sure to tape down both the top and bottom of the antennae so it stays securely in place while embroidering.

Then place the hoop back on the machine, and embroider the left antennae tackdown. This will sew the antennae in place and will be the final step of this embroidery file.

Now that the embroidery is complete, rip away or remove the water soluble stabilizer and remove all the tape.

Then cut out both the front and back upper body pieces by cutting along the cutline. Be careful not to cut the antennae.

If using faux fur, cut out the pieces by cutting on the back side of the fabric with a craft knife.

To sew the front lower body piece, hoop a piece of stabilizer tightly and place the hoop on the machine. Load the embroidery file "g", and embroider the fabric placement guide. This will show where to place the fabric just like in the other body embroidery file.

After the fabric placement guide has sewn, remove the hoop from the machine but do not unhoop the stabilizer. Cut a piece of body fabric the same size or slightly larger than the sewn fabric placement guide. If using faux fur, cut it out on the back of the fabric with a craft knife.

Spray the wrong side of the front fabric piece with temporary adhesive and smooth it onto the hoop stabilizer. Make sure it completely covers the sewn fabric placement guide. If using fluffy fabric, also lay a piece of water soluble stabilizer over the fabric and tape it in place.

Place the hoop back on the machine and embroider the rest of the embroidery file. Some designs like this luna moth will only have a cutline that sews after the placement line and others will have embroidered details.

Once the embroidery is finished, unhoop the stabilizer and remove the water soluble stabilizer and tape.

Cut out both body piece by cutting along the cutline. If using faux fur, cut out the pieces by cutting on the back side of the fabric with a craft knife.

Repeat the previous steps to embroider the back lower body piece "h" the same way as the front (file "g"). Hoop a piece of light weight cutaway stabilizer, embroider the fabric placement guide, place the fabric and any water soluble stabilizer needed, and embroider the rest of the designs.

Then cut it out following the cutline.

To assemble the moth or butterfly, first look at the front upper body piece and locate the wing placement guides that embroidered on it. These will match up with the wing placement guide marks that also sewed on the wings.

Push the antenna up out of the way and lay one of the wing pairs on top of the upper body piece with right/embroidered sides together. Match up the wing placement guides on the wings and body, and make sure you have the wing on the correct side of the body (right vs left).

Then pin the wings and body together.

For best results only do the wing pairs one at a time as pinning both now makes it harder to sew.

Sew the wings onto the body with a 1/2in seam. Some moths and butterflies may have details on the body that you can follow while sewing and some do not. For example, on the luna moth, you can sew right along the purple stripe to get an even 1/2in seam.

If you find it hard to see where the edge of the fabric is, you can also measure and draw a line where the 1/2in seam will sew on the wrong side of the body fabric with a fabric marking tool. Then simply sew on the drawn line to get the 1/2in seam.

Repeat to match the opposite wings up on the body, align the wing placement guides and pin the wings and body pieces together. Sew a 1/2in seam to sew the wings onto the body piece.

Next take the lower front body piece (sewn in file "g") and lay it against the upper front body piece with right sides together. The wings will be in between the two body pieces.

Match up the short straighter edge with the wing placement lines along it and pin the body pieces together.

To make sewing easier, we recommend clipping or pinning the lower front body piece where you are not sewing to the wings. This helps prevent lower body piece from scrunching up, shifting, or folding while sewing.

Sew a 1/2in seam along the pinned short edge to connect the two body pieces. Once done sewing, the wings should perfectly stick out from the seam sewn between those two body pieces.

Repeat to sew the upper and lower back body pieces together along that short edge with a 1/2in seam allowance. No wings to add this time, simply match them up, pin them together along the short edge, and sew.

To keep the wings out of the way while sewing the rest of the design, carefully stack and roll them tightly. Then loosely hold them in a roll with a ponytail or rubber band. It just needs to be tight enough to hold them securely.

Lay the front and back body pieces on top of each other with right sides together. The wings will be in between the two layers.

Pin the body together along the edges, pushing the wings to one side. Leave one side unpinned where the wings stick out. This will be the opening for turning later.

Make sure the antennae are folded down so they get pinned in between the two body pieces.

Sew a 1/2in seam along the outer pinned edges of the body. Make sure to sew right along the inside edge of the antennae tackdowns, so you cannot see them on the finished moth or butterfly.

If you find it hard to see where the edge of the fabric is, you can also measure and draw a line where the 1/2in seam will sew on the wrong side of the body fabric with a fabric marking tool. Then simply sew on the drawn line to get the 1/2in seam.

While sewing, make sure to leave an opening around the wings for turning. Be careful not to sew onto the wings.

For best results, turn the moth right side out before clipping to make sure all the seams look good. It is much harder to seam rip and re-sew any seams after clipping the seam allowance.

If the seams look good, cut small slits along the curves and corners as needed.

Turn the moth or butterfly right side out, and stuff it with your chosen filling material. Stuff the body firmly so it is round, plush, and huggable.

Fold in the edges of the opening 1/2in, and hand sew the opening closed with a sewing thread matching the fabric. A ladder stitch works best to sew this opening closed and will make the opening almost invisible.

Finally, position the wings as desired and hand sew them together with sewing thread so they hold their shape and positioning. You only need tack them together with 3 or 4 stitches.

For the moth, we hand sewed the bottom wings together side by side. Then we positioned the top right wing and sewed it to the bottom right wing along the edge where they touched easily. We sewed the left top and bottom wings the same way.

This completes the 3D moth or butterfly! Follow this tutorial to make a sweet plush to snuggle or give as a gift. You can even use the larger sizes as decorative throw pillows to add a lovely accent to your couch or chair.